Hooti Couture

Dressed to Party, For $29! Why We Love Thrift Town...

                                                                                                                                                                                              

So what do you do when you're looking for a special outfit to wear for your 21st birthday? When you are Cambria Houtte, one of our five nieces, and you are spending the fall living and studying in San Francisco, and you have already blown a good part of your fashion budget on great boots, you head to Thrift Town with your Aunt Melissa.

Thrift Town is one of Melissa's favorite San Francisco haunts, in one of her favorite neighborhoods, the Mission.  At the corner of 17th and Mission streets, Melissa has found everything from an early-'90s Chanel jacket in near-mint condition ($7.99) to a stunning early-'60s Originala red wool coat now owned, and worn, by a top editor at Glamour magazine. And it is THE place to find bargain-priced vintage gems with I. Magnin labels, of course, since that long-gone store was founded in San Francisco. At Thrift Town San Francisco, manager Debra Miller runs a well organized, well-staffed store. New merchandise is added every day but Sunday, every week a different colored tag is 50% off, and regular customers can earn a $10 discount once they've filled a frequent-shopper punch card. Bottom line: It's as much fun as any treasure hunt.

So, on one of her first visits back in October, when Cambria discovered an amazing '70s black brocade coat ($17.50) with black satin lining, three-quarter sleeves and domed rhinestone buttons, and it fit her almost-six-foot-tall frame perfectly, she had the start of an outfit for her birthday celebration on Dec. 12. But how to complete the look for just a few dollars more?

On her next visit, Cambria snagged a light-as-a-feather bubble skirt for $3 (Target's Massimo brand, not vintage, and that's just fine), and with a few quick stitches to take in the elasticized waist, all that remained was the issue of shoes. Nothing in her current wardrobe worked with this outfit, and a new pair were definitely not in the budget. Back to Thrift Town she went and that's when she struck gold: a never-worn pair of Calvin Klein suede, patent and metallic leather heels, for $8 (after using one of those $10 discount cards)! Cambria, who has no fear of heights, was almost six-four with shoes on, and still walked with confidence.

The finishing touch was a '60s-style black brocade flip-over clutch with silver metal trim that Cambria found at Express for $1.50 (yes, $1.50, after two huge discounts; these are strange times).

This girl was ready to party, and with her aunt and uncle as "dates" (OK, Thrift Town may not be the No. 1 destination for cute guys, but they do have a few from time to time!), she spent a night on the town. When she walked into North Beach's Club Fugazi for San Francisco's legendary Beach Blanket Babylon show, she looked like a million bucks.

Sew Amazing!

Our good friend Moya just emailed us about a great website that should inspire anyone with a sewing machine or a good seamstress. It's called the Vintage Pattern Lending Library, and whether your taste leans toward a simple Vogue pattern for a classic summer blouse or a glam gown from the 1930s, you are certain to find something at vpll.org. Customer ratings can be found for some of the designs, and illustrations abound. Check it out! (And if you've never learned to sew, think about lessons! It isn't rocket science, and there's something very satisfying about something as simple as hemming a skirt or repairing a seam. And used sewing machines are often a bargain at estate sales. Melissa has a Kenmore she picked up years ago for $35, and it's still humming.)

The Real "Green"...For Really Good Holiday Gifts!

So, we're wondering, have you noticed the "greening" of holiday advertising and magazine and newspaper articles, or are you a bit more focused on  hunting for memorable gifts at reasonable prices? Well, good luck, and, if you can handle it, we're jumping on the bandwagon,  screaming green at the top of our lungs, and meaning it!

Of course, vintage gifts are the ultimate "green" gesture, recycling at its finest, so we thought we'd end the year with a handful of vintage finds we'd love to receive as gifts—or wear to a holiday party. And not only are they vintage, all found on eBay (click the links to go right to the item), BUT we went a bit overboard, so you'll notice a color theme,  (although we forced that a bit with the velvet-trimmed cocktail dress  we show here because we fell in love with it).

Happy looking, and who knows, you might even finish your shopping while you're reading or, at least, find fresh inspiration for one-of-a-kind gift giving.

A bold bangle  makes a wonderful gift, and green bakelite (here's just one of many available on eBay at the moment), is one of our favorite materials. The green felt purse we found would look striking with a simple black suit or a black wool coat with fur collar, and jewel-tone colors fill all the holiday issues of fashion magazines, so why not treat yourself  to an evening coat with beaded cuffs. Want to go MOD and green? Check out this green and gold carpet coat.  Or keep it classic and elegant with a simple green satin clutch or green stone cuff links.  We could go on and on, of course, but really green shopping, as most vintage aficionados know,  is just as close as your favorite vintage or thrift store. Happy holidays, and best wishes for a great and green New Year. 

Striking Gator Gold...in Auckland, New Zealand

We just had to share a recent email from a magazine editor in New Zealand who is so passionate about vintage that she recently took a copy of Alligators with her when she traveled in the U.S. But it's the find she made after returning home that we are celebrating here:

"This is totally silly, since I've never met you, but thought you might like to see this alligator (crocodile?) bag I bought this week in a hospice shop in NZ. It's the first alligator bag I've ever seen in NZ, and is just stunning. Apart from the handle it's in almost mint condition, as if it's never been used. I bought it for $75 (about US $50) and still can't believe my luck."

Thanks, Christine, and if we ever make it to NZ we want you as a thrift-shop guide! And, FYI, this particular type of gator skin is called "hornback" but we know there are more knowledgeable gator/croc folks out there...other info is welcomed.

Oh, The Stories We Have Heard!

Okay, the time has come, finally, to share a few of the hundreds of emails we've received since Alligators first hit bookstores back in December 2005. Not a week has gone by that we haven't heard from readers all over the world, and while we had every intention of posting some of their comments, we always seemed to get distracted (and a bit overwhelmed)...until now. Stories about vintage, about relationships, about being a savvy shopper, and much more.... we have heard from smart women (and a few equally smart men) who just had to share a few details about a great thrift-store or flea market find or a first-time vintage adventure. We'll start with three of those notes, and in coming months, we promise to share more. Considering our still-strong Florida roots, we must admit that Dawn hooked us from sentence one. She lives on the "Space Coast" in the middle of the state, and she's so serious about thrifting that she included a photo of an outfit she put together for less than $10 (check out that clutch she found for $2.99!). We love it, and we also love what she wrote about her earliest vintage memories: "I went to Katie Gibbs (as it was known back in our day), the secretarial cum finishing school for young ladies who would become the trusted assistants of the men who staffed the "Mahogany Halls" of commerce and industry and then go on to marry them and live happily ever after." (Do we note just a bit of seasoned wit & wisdom here? We think so!) I was a poor struggling student and had no money for clothes. What to do? I raided my mother's closet and absconded with her...black straight cashmere skirt complete with kick pleat, a great camel-hair skirt from Bobbie Brooks, cashmere sweaters and silk shirts...My wardrobe was professional, elegant and classic...I was hooked!...I remember going to job interviews and my entire outfit came from thrifts...I will say that being broke and learning how to thrift shop well has helped me tremendously in the past 30 years." And, from the other coast, here's a note from Meg in San Diego. Okay, there is a bit of a Florida connection here, too...Meg lived there in her childhood, and particularly connected with the "barefoot" photo in our The Way We Were website album: "We absolutely lived in cutoffs and no shoes. I had a pair of cutoffs that were so ragged and patched they made my Mom crazy—she'd toss  them in the trash, I'd drag them back out and hide them in my room...I remember always being outdoors, riding our bikes to the beach, being thin as a rail from always being on the move..." Flash forward a few decades, and here's Meg with her oldest daughter, Chloe, who spends her spare time "plowing through the vintage and resale shops of downtown San Diego." Chloe's wearing a vintage beret and "I'm wearing one of my favorite hats—supposedly from the '40s. I had it cleaned and reblocked and I wear it through the fall and winter." Lastly, we must share just part of a note from Debbie in New Hampshire: "I finished your book about two weeks ago, and I must say that you provided me with the insight to infuse my (usually) classic wardrobe with a little bit of attitude. I just needed to spice it up a bit, and vintage it is....I have bought two vintage coats and a red kid purse that even has a pocket that my cell fits into!...I used to be an assistant buyer at Bloomies on 59th St. I have always been interested in fashion, and I grew up sewing...I just can't figure out why I never thought of vintage before!...When I was in New Jersey last week, I went to a consignment shop and found a vintage knee-length navy spring coat for my 25-year-old daughter for $2.50. It's adorable and she loves it. I hope I have opened her mind to the possibilities!" Debbie, we are sure you have! Thanks to everyone who has written us in the past year and a half, and we promise to share more of your stories in the coming months. Who could resist?

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 4

How to Shop Smart Online
As much as Alison loves her store (and auctions and flea markets)—and Melissa loves all her vintage shopping options in San Francisco—we know that not everyone is so lucky. But stop all that moaning! Incredible vintage goodies are as close as your computer, and if you haven't yet taken the leap into the vintage world on the Internet, you are missing out.

It's not hard to shop online, but being a bit cautious, asking questions before you buy—AND READING THE FINE PRINT—will make you a savvy shopper who is less likely to be stuck with bad goods.

Here's what we have learned over the past several years, while buying everything from a classic two-tone alligator bag to a gorgeous Lilly Pultizer velvet coat (both items are in Melissa's closet):

1. eBay is a great place to start because of their feedback ratings. We always look at a seller's rating before even considering a bid. If someone has less than 50 sales and less than a 99% rating, we will look at lot closer at the actual feedback before taking the next step. Cliched as this sounds, where there's smoke, there's usually fire.

2. Read the whole description before bidding on something AND keep a tape measure close at hand. Don't just guess that something might fit you, and definitely don't go by an actual size tag. Study the measurements, then measure something comparable in your closet, if possible. If that sweater you already own measures 18 inches from armhole to armhole, then you probably can't fit into one that is only 16 inches wide. If the seller doesn't provide measurements, ask for them.

3. If you want something that is likely to be pricey—an alligator or crocodile purse, a vintage watch or serious jewelry, be especially careful about buying from a reputable vendor with top-notch feedback. Also keep in mind that reptile skins can be tricky to identify. But, in general, if the "scale" of a skin is small, it is probably lizard or snake rather than alligator or croc. Often we spot items on eBay that are lizard, but have been described as gator. Look closely at a variety of purses, at brick-and-mortar stores and in photos, and you will become more knowledgeable about skins.

4. If an Internet seller has given only minimal information, or seems vague about the details, ask questions or keep moving. And if you want to see more photos of an item, ask; it's possible the seller has more images they can e-mail you.

5. Most sellers on eBay will NOT accept returns based on poor fit. You buy it, you own it. So, read the details, noting everything from shipping costs to methods of payment to such red flags as "slightly smoky odor".  Also, the most sophisticated Internet vintage vendors have implemented ratings for their merchandise and we love that; some if something is described as "good" rather than "mint" you know what to expect.

6. We love PayPal, for its ease of use, and highly recommend it. Some vendors will take checks or money orders, but that will usually delay the arrival of merchandise.

7. If you have never bid on an item at eBay before, spend some time at the site learning the eBay lingo. That way you will know what a "reserve" is (we usually avoid these because it's more game-playing than shopping), as well as "buy it now" and "best offer." Also, you will encounter sellers who don't sell to first-timers. When in doubt, send an email to the seller before putting in a bid. Usually, honest and clear communication is the best way to avoid misunderstandings.

8. If you win an auction, pay promptly. It is the decent thing to do, and you are much more likely to earn positive feedback, quickly.

9. Finally, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of vintage sellers on the Internet who don't use eBay (and many eBay sellers who also have online "stores"). Amazing merchandise is just a click away, but it helps to know what you are looking for. If you want a vintage Pucci clutch or sexy Daniel Green mules, type those words into Google, and go from there.  As you would at any store, ask about return policies and read any fine print before putting in an order. 

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 3

Golden Gloves

When the fall merchandise first went on the racks at Hooti, I had about 20 pairs of gloves—white, black and brown, from cotton to ostrich—in a basket. Four days later, only three pair remained. I've been restocking as quickly as I can, but lots of times the cotton and nylon gloves I see at auctions need laundering—and it's amazing the results you can get with just a little bit of effort.

Fill your sink or a bucket with cold water, add a little Woolite or other laundry detergent, swish your cotton or nylon gloves around for a few minutes (never mix colors!), let them soak for a couple of hours if they are seriously soiled, then rinse thoroughly, wrap in a towel to dry (no wringing!), then lay flat on a fresh, dry towel, preferably on a rack, to allow ventilation and quicker drying.

If they are white and yellowed, add a little Biz or OxiClean to the wash water and detergent, then soak for at least a couple of hours. If there are oily stains, rub some baby powder into the spots while the gloves are dry, then let them sit for a few minutes before washing. For white gloves, you can give them an extra whitening shot by drying them in the sun. If your soiled gloves are leather or suede, dry cleaning is your best option.

All That Glitters...in Seattle

If you are anywhere near Seattle this weekend (Nov. 4th & 5th), get yourself to the 23rd annual Goodwill Glitter Sale, at 1400 South Lane Street (206-329-1000). We usually try to avoid mob scenes, but we wish we could be in line at 9 am Saturday, when they open the doors.

This event is so crazy that you have to take a number and wait your turn for a shot at the jewelry counter, and the other offerings, selected from donations over the past year, include ball gowns  & tuxedos, shoes, cocktail dresses, purses and wraps....anything you could possibly need for the holiday season. And not only do you have the chance to grab a wonderful piece at a reasonable price, but proceeds support Goodwill's job training and education programs.

Hours are: Saturday, 9-6; Sunday, 11-4, and the store is about a five-minute drive from the  heart of downtown. One more little detail worth noting: Customers must wear slips, bodysuits or swimsuits when trying on clothes. This is not the day to throw modesty out the window.

p.s. If you live in the Seattle area, but are traveling this weekend, you will have another shot at goodies the very next weekend (Nov. 11 & 12). Goodwill will have a vintage booth at the Antiques & Collectibles Show, Puyallup Fairgrounds.

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 1

Create a Bit of Neck Candy

When a mother and daughter came into Hooti Couture recently, they were carrying an expensive new steel-gray double-breasted, three-quarter wool coat from Marni that the daughter would be taking to Paris when she starts a new job later this fall. They had loved Marni’s fur collar accessories, but not the steep prices, so they took a do-it-yourself approach to give this coat added pizzazz.

Fur collars and cuffs often outlast the wool coats they originally trimmed in the 1940s and 1950s, and many vintage stores offer a selection of fur “remnants,” especially in the fall and winter. Hooti always starts the fall season with a basket full of old mink and fox pieces, in all shapes and sizes, but they never last long.

For the Marni coat, the mother-daughter team finally settled on two medium-size mink collars, in brown and black, that can sit either under the wool collar or on top of it. These collars can be held in place with a vintage brooch, or, for a more "permanent" installation,  a couple of hooks and eyes stitched to the collar and coat will do the trick.

So, whether you are headed for Paris, or staying put this fall and winter, it's incredibly easy to give your favorite coat new energy—and up-to-the minute style. 

This fall, we'll add new vintage style and shopping tips and tricks every week. And we'll answer questions, too. Just drop us a note at hooticouture@aol.com.

Here's The Menu: Dumplings or Rice

Wherever vacations take us, we're always on the lookout for great vintage stores, and once we find those stores, anything's possible. That's how we came to learn about designer Cynthia Caldwell's "rice" and "dumpling" bags and lots of other whimsical creations.

Caldwell's pure-fun purses frequently incorporate vintage or recycled fabrics and/or vintage patterns, and we found a few pieces of her Crow 7 Bags line at Encore vintage in downtown Portland, Maine. Owner Rita Prout-Farley has incredible stock (521 Congress St.; 207-775-4275) and excellent prices, and this has to be one of the best vintage stores in New England. It's a must stop if you are anywhere near Portland.

Rita's stock includes Caldwell's larger bags, done in assorted vintage faux leopard prints, and that's how we learned that the artist was sewing the summer away on Peaks Island, before she heads back to home base in Arizona this fall. You can also see her latest work at Archipelago (386 Main St., Rockland, Maine), and at Art by the Bay,  South Maine Community College, on Sept. 16.

Now, about the rice and dumplings: Caldwell's "Rice-Cycled" purses use Bombay rice bags, and the one above also incorporates vintage velvet in a python print. Her "dumplings" are small, soft, round purses with loop handles, and they are based on a 1940s design. For fall Caldwell is doing dumplings in all kinds of vintage furs with velvet trims.

If you are nowhere near Maine this summer or fall, you can see a few of her pieces at www.etsy.com. Under "advanced search" plug in the name Crow 7 to see her page. You can also reach Caldwell at crow7bags@hotmail.com for more information about those furry dumplings, rice bags and many other designs.