Hooti Couture

Oh, The Stories We Have Heard!

Okay, the time has come, finally, to share a few of the hundreds of emails we've received since Alligators first hit bookstores back in December 2005. Not a week has gone by that we haven't heard from readers all over the world, and while we had every intention of posting some of their comments, we always seemed to get distracted (and a bit overwhelmed)...until now. Stories about vintage, about relationships, about being a savvy shopper, and much more.... we have heard from smart women (and a few equally smart men) who just had to share a few details about a great thrift-store or flea market find or a first-time vintage adventure. We'll start with three of those notes, and in coming months, we promise to share more. Considering our still-strong Florida roots, we must admit that Dawn hooked us from sentence one. She lives on the "Space Coast" in the middle of the state, and she's so serious about thrifting that she included a photo of an outfit she put together for less than $10 (check out that clutch she found for $2.99!). We love it, and we also love what she wrote about her earliest vintage memories: "I went to Katie Gibbs (as it was known back in our day), the secretarial cum finishing school for young ladies who would become the trusted assistants of the men who staffed the "Mahogany Halls" of commerce and industry and then go on to marry them and live happily ever after." (Do we note just a bit of seasoned wit & wisdom here? We think so!) I was a poor struggling student and had no money for clothes. What to do? I raided my mother's closet and absconded with her...black straight cashmere skirt complete with kick pleat, a great camel-hair skirt from Bobbie Brooks, cashmere sweaters and silk shirts...My wardrobe was professional, elegant and classic...I was hooked!...I remember going to job interviews and my entire outfit came from thrifts...I will say that being broke and learning how to thrift shop well has helped me tremendously in the past 30 years." And, from the other coast, here's a note from Meg in San Diego. Okay, there is a bit of a Florida connection here, too...Meg lived there in her childhood, and particularly connected with the "barefoot" photo in our The Way We Were website album: "We absolutely lived in cutoffs and no shoes. I had a pair of cutoffs that were so ragged and patched they made my Mom crazy—she'd toss  them in the trash, I'd drag them back out and hide them in my room...I remember always being outdoors, riding our bikes to the beach, being thin as a rail from always being on the move..." Flash forward a few decades, and here's Meg with her oldest daughter, Chloe, who spends her spare time "plowing through the vintage and resale shops of downtown San Diego." Chloe's wearing a vintage beret and "I'm wearing one of my favorite hats—supposedly from the '40s. I had it cleaned and reblocked and I wear it through the fall and winter." Lastly, we must share just part of a note from Debbie in New Hampshire: "I finished your book about two weeks ago, and I must say that you provided me with the insight to infuse my (usually) classic wardrobe with a little bit of attitude. I just needed to spice it up a bit, and vintage it is....I have bought two vintage coats and a red kid purse that even has a pocket that my cell fits into!...I used to be an assistant buyer at Bloomies on 59th St. I have always been interested in fashion, and I grew up sewing...I just can't figure out why I never thought of vintage before!...When I was in New Jersey last week, I went to a consignment shop and found a vintage knee-length navy spring coat for my 25-year-old daughter for $2.50. It's adorable and she loves it. I hope I have opened her mind to the possibilities!" Debbie, we are sure you have! Thanks to everyone who has written us in the past year and a half, and we promise to share more of your stories in the coming months. Who could resist?

Alligators Is Everywhere!

In the shameless self-promotion department, we just have to brag for a paragraph (OK, two paragraphs) about our latest press coverage: Right this minute, you can find a mention of our book (as well as a photo of the paperback cover) on page 20 of the March 6 issue of Woman's Day magazine (it's on the newsstands now)...We are indebted to Dorothy Ruff of Colorado, who was one of the earliest Alligators fans to email us with her compliments. Thank you, Dorothy!!

Across the ocean, we got a huge, hot tout in the UK...in Heat magazine. For the issue of Feb. 3-9, Alligators was ranked as No. 10 on Heat's Top 10 booklist. Thank you Heat editors!

Now, onto the Oscars...we will be watching for great vintage gowns, of course.

"Cheap Chic," Then & Now

Melissa recently did an Alligators reading and vintage show 'n tell in Lafayette, which is a suburb across the bay from San Francisco. Every chair was taken, and the vintage goodies worn (and discussed) by attendees included luscious sweaters, tiny metal mesh bags, and a kangaroo-skin coat bought decades ago in Australia. And one guest, Cindy Marshall, not only offered a glimpse of the '60s, as remembered through a great black boucle dress suit that she wore to Europe, but she brought a paperback book that is as fun today as it was when it came out in 1975. Cheap Chic, by Caterine Milinaire and Carol Troy, was subtitled "Hundreds of money saving hints to create your own great look." The book was jammed with black & white photos and quirky illustrations, and topics varied from "wrapping" jersey around your body to the work of Zandra Rhodes and Diana Vreeland. One of our favorite mini-profiles, of writer Fran Liebowitz, was titled "Grouchy Simplicity." And her crankiness about "clothes with pictures and/or writing on them" makes us wonder how she's coped with the past thirty years of fashion. But one of her quotes sounds as fresh as anything in the current issue of Vogue, so we must repeat it: "My most precious possession is a terrific riding jacket that was made a century ago for the aunt of a friend. She was 80 when she died, wearing it, and it is still holding up impeccably....I wear it with $2 white cotton sailor pants." We assume that jacket finally died, but we'd love to know what replaced it in her fashion affections. As for the book itself, it has aged almost as well as a faux leopard coat or alligator bag. Cheap Chic originally sold for $5.95, but is now priced at $80 or more at assorted online book sellers. And the Cheap Chic "update", which came out in 1978, has also become a high-priced collectible. Thanks, Cindy, for reminding us of this classic.

Sixties Style, For a Price....

Before you begin your spring shopping at flea markets, vintage and thrift stores, and/or eBay, take a quick peak at the February issue of Vogue. You've already seen it? If so, you probably caught the mini-profile of designer Alice Ritter (page 266), posed in a delightful black dress with white trim and tasteful little bows....Yours for only $563, if you only buy new. Then, just a few pages before Ritter, you'll see an armload of square and rounded bangles, clear and gray, from $175 to $1,400.
Oh my. We are so glad we love old!

And Now, The First Vintage Wisdom for 2007....

Happy New Year to all our vintage-loving friends, and we'll kick off 2007 with a quote from designer Cynthia Rowley, found on page 53 of the January issue of Glamour magazine. When Ms. Rowley was asked what she loves right this minute, she said:

"Eighties-inspired fashion, a la Pretty in Pink. My rule: Mix contemporary pieces with vintage—you don't want to look like you walked out of a time machine."

So, on that note, happy dressing, and if you happen to be in England or elsewhere in the UK, look for the new paperback edition of Alligators, Old Mink & New Money. It hit bookstore shelves on Jan. 4.

Give The One-of-a-Kind Gift of Vintage

Do the malls leave you uninspired (or worse)? Are you bored to death with the cookie-cutter stuff in the endless catalogs filling your mailbox? Here are a few vintage-oriented ideas, plus one general shopping suggestion: For anyone on your gift list who appreciates fresh, unusual gifts, find the best vintage stores and estate jewelers in your town and do a bit of browsing. Or immediately check out the hundreds of Internet-based vintage stores that have quick shipping. And don't forget that many listings on eBay have a "Buy It Now" option, which is perfect for last-minute shoppers...as long as you spot a great item before someone else does. With so many ways to shop vintage, something is sure to grab your eye. Now, a few suggestions: 1. Give the gift that has already lasted a lifetime: a vintage watch, restored and ready to go another 20, 30 or 40 years. Look for rose gold, if you can afford it, or sterling, and buy from a jeweler or vintage store that specializes in watches. Lots of women, especially those with big bones, prefer the look of a man's watch. And watches with curved crystals are particularly handsome. 2. Think cashmere! A vintage cashmere sweater is hard to resist, especially one with beading or a fur collar (...IF the recipient is comfortable wearing fur). Pringle is one label to look for, but there are many great cashmere sweaters that lost their tags long ago and are still in great condition. Look carefully for holes, and holding the sweater up to the light is one way to do that. Cashmere coats and capes are another luxurious option. When in doubt about fit, make sure the store has an exchange or refund policy before buying. 3. If you are buying for someone who loves silk scarves, the only limit is your budget. Among the great labels to consider: Hermes, Givenchy, Jean Patou, Liberty of London, Vera and Pucci. That's just a short list, and many stunning pieces have no signature. For this gift category, eBay is a wonderful shopping destination. But be prepared for a bidding war—scarves are a hot commodity this time of year.  4. Purses, purses, purses: Need we say more. From classic gators to Whiting & Davis mesh evening bags (like the one shown here) to hobo shoulder pouches, the options are almost limitless.  5. Rhinestones on anything, bangles and cuffs and cuff links, earrings big and small...the list goes on and on for vintage jewelry. This is a category where you can spend $10 or $1,000, and give something that will be remembered (and worn). 6. Household goodies, from linens to pottery to lamps, are another great option, especially for those who spend more time polishing their home decor than their wardrobe. We particularly love vintage tablecloths and napkins, distinctive salt & pepper shakers, old teapots and quirky metal serving trays. 7. Gift certificates: Want to give vintage but have absolutely no idea what will be a hit? Buy a gift certificate. Most good vintage stores offer these. And, if you want to make the grand gesture really grand, tuck the certificate inside an inexpensive vintage evening clutch or wrap it with a vintage hankie...Now that's nice packaging!

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 4

How to Shop Smart Online
As much as Alison loves her store (and auctions and flea markets)—and Melissa loves all her vintage shopping options in San Francisco—we know that not everyone is so lucky. But stop all that moaning! Incredible vintage goodies are as close as your computer, and if you haven't yet taken the leap into the vintage world on the Internet, you are missing out.

It's not hard to shop online, but being a bit cautious, asking questions before you buy—AND READING THE FINE PRINT—will make you a savvy shopper who is less likely to be stuck with bad goods.

Here's what we have learned over the past several years, while buying everything from a classic two-tone alligator bag to a gorgeous Lilly Pultizer velvet coat (both items are in Melissa's closet):

1. eBay is a great place to start because of their feedback ratings. We always look at a seller's rating before even considering a bid. If someone has less than 50 sales and less than a 99% rating, we will look at lot closer at the actual feedback before taking the next step. Cliched as this sounds, where there's smoke, there's usually fire.

2. Read the whole description before bidding on something AND keep a tape measure close at hand. Don't just guess that something might fit you, and definitely don't go by an actual size tag. Study the measurements, then measure something comparable in your closet, if possible. If that sweater you already own measures 18 inches from armhole to armhole, then you probably can't fit into one that is only 16 inches wide. If the seller doesn't provide measurements, ask for them.

3. If you want something that is likely to be pricey—an alligator or crocodile purse, a vintage watch or serious jewelry, be especially careful about buying from a reputable vendor with top-notch feedback. Also keep in mind that reptile skins can be tricky to identify. But, in general, if the "scale" of a skin is small, it is probably lizard or snake rather than alligator or croc. Often we spot items on eBay that are lizard, but have been described as gator. Look closely at a variety of purses, at brick-and-mortar stores and in photos, and you will become more knowledgeable about skins.

4. If an Internet seller has given only minimal information, or seems vague about the details, ask questions or keep moving. And if you want to see more photos of an item, ask; it's possible the seller has more images they can e-mail you.

5. Most sellers on eBay will NOT accept returns based on poor fit. You buy it, you own it. So, read the details, noting everything from shipping costs to methods of payment to such red flags as "slightly smoky odor".  Also, the most sophisticated Internet vintage vendors have implemented ratings for their merchandise and we love that; some if something is described as "good" rather than "mint" you know what to expect.

6. We love PayPal, for its ease of use, and highly recommend it. Some vendors will take checks or money orders, but that will usually delay the arrival of merchandise.

7. If you have never bid on an item at eBay before, spend some time at the site learning the eBay lingo. That way you will know what a "reserve" is (we usually avoid these because it's more game-playing than shopping), as well as "buy it now" and "best offer." Also, you will encounter sellers who don't sell to first-timers. When in doubt, send an email to the seller before putting in a bid. Usually, honest and clear communication is the best way to avoid misunderstandings.

8. If you win an auction, pay promptly. It is the decent thing to do, and you are much more likely to earn positive feedback, quickly.

9. Finally, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of vintage sellers on the Internet who don't use eBay (and many eBay sellers who also have online "stores"). Amazing merchandise is just a click away, but it helps to know what you are looking for. If you want a vintage Pucci clutch or sexy Daniel Green mules, type those words into Google, and go from there.  As you would at any store, ask about return policies and read any fine print before putting in an order. 

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 3

Golden Gloves

When the fall merchandise first went on the racks at Hooti, I had about 20 pairs of gloves—white, black and brown, from cotton to ostrich—in a basket. Four days later, only three pair remained. I've been restocking as quickly as I can, but lots of times the cotton and nylon gloves I see at auctions need laundering—and it's amazing the results you can get with just a little bit of effort.

Fill your sink or a bucket with cold water, add a little Woolite or other laundry detergent, swish your cotton or nylon gloves around for a few minutes (never mix colors!), let them soak for a couple of hours if they are seriously soiled, then rinse thoroughly, wrap in a towel to dry (no wringing!), then lay flat on a fresh, dry towel, preferably on a rack, to allow ventilation and quicker drying.

If they are white and yellowed, add a little Biz or OxiClean to the wash water and detergent, then soak for at least a couple of hours. If there are oily stains, rub some baby powder into the spots while the gloves are dry, then let them sit for a few minutes before washing. For white gloves, you can give them an extra whitening shot by drying them in the sun. If your soiled gloves are leather or suede, dry cleaning is your best option.

All That Glitters...in Seattle

If you are anywhere near Seattle this weekend (Nov. 4th & 5th), get yourself to the 23rd annual Goodwill Glitter Sale, at 1400 South Lane Street (206-329-1000). We usually try to avoid mob scenes, but we wish we could be in line at 9 am Saturday, when they open the doors.

This event is so crazy that you have to take a number and wait your turn for a shot at the jewelry counter, and the other offerings, selected from donations over the past year, include ball gowns  & tuxedos, shoes, cocktail dresses, purses and wraps....anything you could possibly need for the holiday season. And not only do you have the chance to grab a wonderful piece at a reasonable price, but proceeds support Goodwill's job training and education programs.

Hours are: Saturday, 9-6; Sunday, 11-4, and the store is about a five-minute drive from the  heart of downtown. One more little detail worth noting: Customers must wear slips, bodysuits or swimsuits when trying on clothes. This is not the day to throw modesty out the window.

p.s. If you live in the Seattle area, but are traveling this weekend, you will have another shot at goodies the very next weekend (Nov. 11 & 12). Goodwill will have a vintage booth at the Antiques & Collectibles Show, Puyallup Fairgrounds.

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 2

Cuff It!
Necks and coats aren’t the only thing getting the fur treatment this fall: In fact, your options for pumping up your wardrobe with a swath of mink, fox or a fabulous faux are almost limitless.

We never miss a chance to grab fur cuffs for Hooti because they can give a fresh twist to everything from a simple seventies velvet or tweed jacket to almost any vintage denim or thick-knit outerwear.

If you can’t find the right cuffs in your favorite vintage store, check out your local thrift stores for a fur-trimmed coat where the price is right because the coat’s design or color is unappealing, or the wool is full of moth holes or damaged by stains. If the fur looks healthy (no "bald" spots, no cracks or splits, no shedding), grab that coat. Then remove the cuffs, donate the coat to your local charity, if it’s still wearable, and give those cuffs a second life.

You can either hand-stitch them to the jacket or coat yourself or have your tailor do the work. And once that first serious cold weather blows through your city or town, your wrists will thank you.