As readers of Alligators know (and Hooti shoppers, too), our Mom has had her stylish moments for many decades, even when money was tight and her shopping time was limited by six kids. Mom had—and still has—a great eye, and in the 50s and 60s her absolute favorite brand of handbags was Koret. Their designs were classic and materials were top-notch, and that's why we still put that brand at the top of our list when we are hunting eBay, thrift stores, estate sales and flea markets. A good Koret sells quickly at Hooti, and if you've ever seen one, you know why.
But even a Koret can be a tricky vintage purchase, so here a few simple guidelines for buying vintage purses; if you follow them you should have very satisfying results. Plus we've listed a bunch of other great purse labels you might want to watch for. Keep in mind, though, that some of the most beautiful vintage purses out there, including great gators, have no label at all.
1) Look closely at the handle. especially where it attaches to the body of the purse! Leather handles often break first at the metal hardware, and often this is not an easy repair. (But if the body is great, you can cut off the handle and replace it with an old beaded necklace...but that makes it a whole different purse.)
2) Loose stitching is often fixable. If a purse is well priced, and the leather or vinyl isn't dried out or rotten, a shoemaker should be able to repair the problem.
3) Does the clasp work? If the purse doesn't close easily and tightly, pass!
4) Indentations are tricky. Vintage purses that have been stored poorly often have "dents" in them. Decide what you can live with because we don't know of any way to fix that...On the other hand, we don't worry all that much if a handle doesn't stand up straight because of poor storage. After all lots of these purses have been around for 50 years or more, and that's a long time to keep perfect posture.
5) Avoid fabric purses, especially satins, with exterior stains. We like to think we are stain masters, and we've had our successes with white and off-white purses, but, overall, purse stains are tricky business. Buyer beware. That said, we figure that almost every purse lining has been exposed to some abuse over the ages. If the exterior of a bag is good, we don't worry about the lining unless it is torn, rotten or plain ugly. Lipstick and ink stains are just too common to worry about.
6) If you are spending a lot of money on a reptile bag (lizard, gator or crocodile), educate yourself before you make a purchase. These bags can be incredibly durable and beautiful OR one short step from the garbage can. A dried out bag with split skins isn't worth your effort, and quality of construction is also a big factor to consider.
Finally, here's a sampling of the purse labels we love, in addition to Koret. Not every design is a keeper, of course, but we always keep our eyes open: Moskowitz (or MM), Dofan, Whiting & Davis, Lewis, Theodor of California, Vassar, Bellestone, Garay, Lou Taylor, Deitsch, Geller, Berne, Meyers, JR, Dover, Lucille de Paris, Revits, Calderon, L&M and Jay Herbert. As we said, this is just a sampling.
Good luck with the hunt.


Alligators, Old Mink & New Money, One Woman's Adventures in Vintage Clothing was written by sisters Alison and Melissa Houtte and is available in the U.S. and Canada in both hardback (top; William Morrow/Harper Collins) and paperback (Avon Trade).
You can also buy the UK edition (Orion Publishing) in hardback in England, Australia, New Zealand, Scotland and Wales. Orion's paperback edition (below) is also now on sale.
Thanks so much for these posts, they're great. I've read Alligators, but it's nice to have certain points emphasised on the blog. A lot of the brands don't translate outside of America, obviously, (I live in NZ) but it's great to have some pointers. (Any chance you could include the odd snapshot of particularly lovely bags that go through the shop?) I travelled to Colorado and LA recently, and had my copy of Alligators in my handbag the whole time to guide me! It made my vintage shopping so much more fun, and I got really excited when I saw a Lilli Ann coat in Colorado. Too expensive for me, but it was cool to be able to recognise a quality brand. I felt like I was in some kind of exclusive club! Christine
Posted by: Christine McBride | August 12, 2007 at 07:21 PM
I bought a Koret bag this summer. It's in pretty good shape, black leather, with a pretty chain handle. I paid practically nothing for it too! Good to hear it's a well respected brand!
Posted by: VintageLovah | September 19, 2007 at 10:50 PM
I appreciate your information about hunting for the best vintage bag. I was aware of all the steps you mentioned because i am a collector of rare vintage and designer bags. I haven't been fortunate enough to collect as long as you have been but it was your book that inspired me to become a serious collector. I loved the book you and your daughter wrote. It is nice to know there are women out there thinking and appreciating the items from the past and giving them a new life in the future.
Posted by: Vanessa Garcia | March 19, 2008 at 03:45 AM
I just bought a small woven leather satchel style shoulder bag in burgundy with a small embossed metal label inside that says Meyers, USA. I picked it up at a thrift store. Originally I thought I would discover it was a Fred Meyers private label and just a nice little inexpensive bag. Having had no success in locating any information about Meyers Handbags specifically, though I did find one link which said the company name was actually Meyers Manufacturing Company and that the famous designer Bonnie Cushin worked for them at some point, I wasn't able to find a company history, when it went out of business, or what their brand logo(s) may have looked like. Having stumbled across your site and reading it's a brand you always have your eye out for, now I am very curious to learn more. What can you tell me about the company and their brand logo that might help me determine if this one I bought is one of theirs? Any ideas regarding it's value??? Thank you! Tsipi
Posted by: Tsipi Lavan | January 25, 2010 at 01:17 AM
I found a Koret purse today at an outlet store and it appears to be in almost mint condition...just a few small wear spots on the corners and straps. How do I find out more information on when this was made and the value today. Do you have any suggestions? Thanks!
Posted by: Barbara | February 09, 2010 at 05:12 PM
Great tips you gave here. Although I sometimes indulge myself into buying vintages- at these hard times I prefer to just settle for less. I'm keeping your tips in mind just in case I do stumble on one. Thanks!
Posted by: Betty @ Fashion Handbags | April 11, 2011 at 12:37 AM