Hooti Couture

Sew Amazing!

Our good friend Moya just emailed us about a great website that should inspire anyone with a sewing machine or a good seamstress. It's called the Vintage Pattern Lending Library, and whether your taste leans toward a simple Vogue pattern for a classic summer blouse or a glam gown from the 1930s, you are certain to find something at vpll.org. Customer ratings can be found for some of the designs, and illustrations abound. Check it out! (And if you've never learned to sew, think about lessons! It isn't rocket science, and there's something very satisfying about something as simple as hemming a skirt or repairing a seam. And used sewing machines are often a bargain at estate sales. Melissa has a Kenmore she picked up years ago for $35, and it's still humming.)

That Vintage Attitude...

We had to share this photograph and over-the-top feedback from Barbara B., a smart, sassy Hooti Couture customer who knows what she likes, and knows how to make a statement.

"(Hooti) captures the essence of how every woman should feel; fabulous. I feel sexy, classy and empowered at the same time...and I have finally discovered a store that embraces ALL women. Many people I encounter often ask me, 'Where do you get your clothes?' or 'Please take me to that store!' This is what Hooti Couture does for the everyday woman; it makes them extraordinary!"   

Thank you, Barbara. Stripes and bangles never looked better! And here's to empowering "everyday" women everywhere.

Bring on Spring (Please!)...Notes from Here & There

The streets of New York City and Brooklyn may still be chilly, and occasionally damp, but bold print dresses in reds and yellows and pinks are flying out of Hooti, along with big and little clutches, lots of patent leather, and straw and wicker box bags that make us think of Grandma Houtte all dressed up and on her way to a bridge game decades ago in Miami. Good energy, good memories, now if it would just get warm....

If you haven't found your way to a movie theater in a few weeks, consider the very stylish Married Life, where one of our favorite actresses, Patricia Clarkson,  is ravishing as a late 1940s-era housewife with good taste, and a nice wardrobe budget, too. And Rachel McAdams, as the other, younger woman, even makes the color brown memorable. Clothes aside, this movie is just fun...

Onto more real-world topics, we're quickly growing weary of the "green" bandwagon—is there anything besides a Big Mac that can't be given a green twist by advertising agencies?—but in our book vintage fashion should top any list of ways to reduce our carbon footprints. And since 2008 will likely find most of us watching our hard-earned dollars, too, vintage has never seemed like a smarter, more thoughtful way to shop...

We continue to be big fans of eBay vintage sellers, but we are taking a break from the What We Like on eBay feature  because Melissa has a new book project that requires her full attention. We promise you will be hearing more about The Smartest Girl on Fifth Avenue, which will be published by Henry Holt in January 2010.  Smartest Girl is a narrative biography of a woman named Dorothy Shaver, who was president of Lord & Taylor from 1945 to 1959, and who began promoting the first generation of American designers in 1932, and kept at it for the next 25 years. A very smart woman, indeed....

That's it for the moment but we will continue to post as time permits. Until then, Happy Spring to all our friends and fans!

Suits, Sheaths, Camelot! Are Those Gasps We Hear?

Last week, the New York Times' Thursday Style section focused its fashion coverage on The Newly Uptight, an article  accompanied by photographs of some of the most boring sheaths of the Jackie O era. But for those of us who love to shop vintage or be first in line at stoop and estate sales and church rummage fund-raisers, it was the latest confirmation that old is still great—and certainly doesn't have to be deadly dull.

Writer Ruth La Ferla noted that many designers, from Marc Jacobs to Michael Kors, are leaning heavily in the direction of "mid-century Middle America" for their fall 2008 looks, and it's hard not to hear the disappointment and disapproval in her tone. But Michael Kors seems happy to embrace the latest twist making its way up Seventh Avenue: "So many young women relish the idea of looking turned out...It is the opposite of trying so hard to look undone." And we would suggest it isn't just "young women" drawn to smart jackets and sleek, minimalist dresses. (In the spirit of mid-century fashion, check out our latest eBay favorites at left.)

As the  Times writer noted, "revisiting the classics is also a way of dispelling the notion that fashion is disposable." Well, yes, that's certainly true. And it's a message vintage aficionados have been trying to spread for a long time.

The Real "Green"...For Really Good Holiday Gifts!

So, we're wondering, have you noticed the "greening" of holiday advertising and magazine and newspaper articles, or are you a bit more focused on  hunting for memorable gifts at reasonable prices? Well, good luck, and, if you can handle it, we're jumping on the bandwagon,  screaming green at the top of our lungs, and meaning it!

Of course, vintage gifts are the ultimate "green" gesture, recycling at its finest, so we thought we'd end the year with a handful of vintage finds we'd love to receive as gifts—or wear to a holiday party. And not only are they vintage, all found on eBay (click the links to go right to the item), BUT we went a bit overboard, so you'll notice a color theme,  (although we forced that a bit with the velvet-trimmed cocktail dress  we show here because we fell in love with it).

Happy looking, and who knows, you might even finish your shopping while you're reading or, at least, find fresh inspiration for one-of-a-kind gift giving.

A bold bangle  makes a wonderful gift, and green bakelite (here's just one of many available on eBay at the moment), is one of our favorite materials. The green felt purse we found would look striking with a simple black suit or a black wool coat with fur collar, and jewel-tone colors fill all the holiday issues of fashion magazines, so why not treat yourself  to an evening coat with beaded cuffs. Want to go MOD and green? Check out this green and gold carpet coat.  Or keep it classic and elegant with a simple green satin clutch or green stone cuff links.  We could go on and on, of course, but really green shopping, as most vintage aficionados know,  is just as close as your favorite vintage or thrift store. Happy holidays, and best wishes for a great and green New Year. 

Looking For Your Inner Diva?

Almost two years ago, when we were making the rounds promoting Alligators, we were lucky to meet a woman named Brenda Kinsel. Brenda, who is a professional image consultant and author of multiple books, had been asked by a San Francisco-area bookstore to interview us about vintage fashion and about our experiences writing the book together. She was amazing—funny, smart, well prepared—and she made us look good!

Flash forward a year or so, and Brenda asked both of us to contribute to her newest book, Brenda Kinsel's Fashion Makeover...30 Days to Diva Style . We couldn't resist, and now, as of this week, "diva style" has arrived in bookstores everywhere. You'll find tips from Alison on How to Make an Entrance,  and Melissa contributed a list of 10 items that will give any woman The Vintage Advantage. But there's so much more. Brenda has packed her 216-page book with advice on everything from dressing for a date to how to shop for jewelry, and everything revolves around her step-by-step 30-day beauty camp. If you are hungry to just freshen your look, or ready for a head-to-toe style redo, here's a good place to start. And to learn much more about Brenda, check out brendakinsel.com, an entertaining and informative website.

An Eye For Vintage

When Alison saw what one of her customers had done with a Hooti Couture find, a pink polyester negligee from the 1960s, we had to share it.

Brooklyn-based photographer Gabrielle Revere is a  longtime Hooti regular whose work has appeared everywhere from the editorial pages of Entertainment Weekly and Vanity Fair magazines, to print advertisements for Noxzema and Secret deodorant. Gabrielle also has been recognized in Oprah Winfrey's O magazine for her photography work in Third World countries, and a subsequent show/fund-raising auction called I Only Have Eyes for You.

This photograph can be found on her website, gabriellerevere.com. Click on Portfolio, then check out Untamed Youth—and don't miss other shots done with vintage pieces, too.

Crazy for Korets!

We have to share an excerpt of a note from Camille, who lives in Boston and has a passion for Koret purses, just like our Mom once did (see "Bag Time" posting below):
" About 8 years ago I started buying vintage purses from thrift stores.  No rhyme or reason to my purchases other than what appealed to me – boxy frames, bold hardware, studded feet.  But my collecting became more focused when I saw my first Murray Kruger with a pale aqua blue leather interior.  SIGH.  I realized then there was more to these handbags and I set about scouring the internet to learn more about vintage purses.  And while there are many labels I admire,  Koret is my absolute favorite.  I have a suede bag with twisted Lucite handles, an elegant black travel-style handbag that would compete with any Gucci, a velvet tapestry in browns and purples, and more—all from Koret.  But my all time favorites are the huge carpet bags lined in soft red leather and stamped 'made in Italy' with matching change purse attached by gold chain.  I have two such bags that I just simply adore.  Here is a picture of them with a smaller Koret."

Thanks, Camille...and we will make sure Mom sees this posting, too. Currently she is carrying a vintage  small gray leather goatskin shoulder bag  (not Koret, but very nicely made) that Melissa found on eBay. She still loves purses!

Striking Gator Gold...in Auckland, New Zealand

We just had to share a recent email from a magazine editor in New Zealand who is so passionate about vintage that she recently took a copy of Alligators with her when she traveled in the U.S. But it's the find she made after returning home that we are celebrating here:

"This is totally silly, since I've never met you, but thought you might like to see this alligator (crocodile?) bag I bought this week in a hospice shop in NZ. It's the first alligator bag I've ever seen in NZ, and is just stunning. Apart from the handle it's in almost mint condition, as if it's never been used. I bought it for $75 (about US $50) and still can't believe my luck."

Thanks, Christine, and if we ever make it to NZ we want you as a thrift-shop guide! And, FYI, this particular type of gator skin is called "hornback" but we know there are more knowledgeable gator/croc folks out there...other info is welcomed.

Vintage & Vintage on Fifth Avenue

At a recent posh wedding in a very vintage Manhattan building, Hooti Couture finery made an grand appearance, thanks to our good friend and customer, Cassandra.

The setting was Cipriani 23rd Street, a WOW Art Deco space in the historic Toy Building, and Cassandra chose a 50s Little Black Hooti Dress, snapped up at summer-sale prices (smart woman!). She paired the sexy off-the-shoulder gown with a classic black clutch trimmed with a flat bow. And she finished the glam look with vintage crystal and gold earrings and Anne Klein open-toe patent leather heels.

We know all this because Cassandra's mom, Sharon, can often be found helping customers at Hooti, and is always on the hunt for goodies for Cassandra, too.

If you have a wedding on the horizon, think vintage! And Hooti will have lots of fresh goodies, for weddings or just everyday fun, in its 2007 fall collection. Be ready to shop on  Friday, Sept. 7.

Bag Time: Tips For Grabbing The Best

As readers of Alligators know (and Hooti shoppers, too), our Mom has had her stylish moments for many decades, even when money was tight and her shopping time was limited by six kids. Mom had—and still has—a great eye, and in the 50s and 60s her absolute favorite brand of handbags was Koret. Their designs were classic and materials were top-notch, and that's why we still put that brand at the top of our list when we are hunting eBay, thrift stores, estate sales and flea markets. A good Koret sells quickly at Hooti, and if you've ever seen one, you know why.

But even a Koret can be a tricky vintage purchase, so here a few simple guidelines for buying vintage purses; if you follow them you should have very satisfying results. Plus we've listed a bunch of other great purse labels you might want to watch for. Keep in mind, though, that some of the most beautiful vintage purses out there, including great gators, have no label at all.

1) Look closely at the handle. especially where it attaches to the body of the purse! Leather handles often break first at the metal hardware, and often this is not an easy repair. (But if the body is great, you can cut off the handle and replace it with an old beaded necklace...but that makes it a whole different purse.)

2) Loose stitching is often fixable. If a purse is well priced, and the leather or vinyl isn't dried out or rotten, a shoemaker should be able to repair the problem.

3) Does the clasp work? If the purse doesn't close easily and tightly, pass!

4) Indentations are tricky. Vintage purses that have been stored poorly often have "dents" in them. Decide what you can live with because we don't know of any way to fix that...On the other hand, we don't worry all that much if a handle doesn't stand up straight  because of poor storage. After all lots of these purses have been around for 50 years or more, and that's a long time to keep perfect posture.

5) Avoid fabric purses, especially satins, with exterior stains. We like to think we are stain masters, and we've had our successes with white and off-white purses, but, overall, purse stains are tricky business. Buyer beware. That said, we figure that almost every purse lining has been exposed to some abuse over the ages. If the exterior of a bag is good, we don't worry about the lining unless it is torn, rotten or plain ugly. Lipstick and ink stains are just too common to worry about.

6) If you are spending a lot of money on a reptile bag (lizard, gator or crocodile), educate yourself before you make a purchase. These bags can be incredibly durable and beautiful OR one short step from the garbage can. A dried out bag with split skins isn't worth your effort, and quality of construction is also a big factor to consider.

Finally, here's a sampling of the purse labels we love, in addition to Koret. Not every design is a keeper, of course, but we always keep our eyes open: Moskowitz (or MM), Dofan, Whiting & Davis, Lewis, Theodor of California, Vassar, Bellestone, Garay, Lou Taylor, Deitsch, Geller, Berne, Meyers, JR, Dover, Lucille de Paris, Revits,  Calderon, L&M and Jay Herbert. As we said, this is just a sampling.

Good luck with the hunt.

Vintage Stitchery...and More

Our friend Martha, she of the hot pink Lilli Ann coat (see posting below), also made us aware of the August/September issue of Threads magazine. For anyone who loves vintage patterns or tackles the occasional vintage clothing repair (or still has their grandmother's vintage Singer machine!), this issue is a must-read. And you can find some of the info online, too, including great photos of vintage aprons. Check out threadsmagazine.com.

More Readers' Vintage Adventures: The Hot Pink $1 Coat

As soon as we saw this photo, we knew we had to share the story about this coat's "rescue" by one of our favorite correspondents.

We first met Martha, who lives just north of San Francisco, at a book signing last summer. The event was memorable for the attentive audience and the setting: outdoors among towering redwoods.

Martha claims that Alligators, Old Mink & New Money and our website have helped her become a more savvy vintage observer. We love the compliment, but since this creative  woman makes her own stationery from wonderful vintage photographs, we're not sure she needed much help or inspiration.

Which brings us to this coat: A few weekends ago, Martha was digging for bargains at an annual rummage sale at a church in the very upscale community of Ross. By the time Martha got to St. John's Episcopal Church the organizers were anxious to move merchandise and the pricing was simple: a $1 a bag for everything you could fit in a bag.

As Martha notes, this wool knit coat, with a pink taffeta-like lining and a label reading Lilli Ann Paris San Francisco, "was the only item I could fit in the bag."  Ohhh, what an item.

Thanks for sharing, Martha. And Melissa will be in touch about next summer's St. John's sale.

A Few Delicious Words About Vintage...

If you're looking for a quick and visual vintage romp on an almost daily basis, check out Mary Kincaid's blog, Zuburbia, at www.zuburbia.blogspot.com. Her mix of history, commentary and photos (of everything from an amazing Lilly Pulitzer tiered ruffle dress to a quirky one-of-a-kind needlepoint purse by Patricia Smith) is addictive. And she links to assorted sellers, so you can go shopping, too, if an item stirs up instant lust.

We accidentally found Zuburbia while googling for information about assorted old Lilly Pulitzer labels. One of the results was Zuburbia, since Mary had done multiple postings on Lilly pieces in April and  May.

For the record, we promise we'd be touting this blog even if we hadn't discovered a mention of our book on her suggested reading list. Thank you, Mary, and we'll be reading all future postings.

Where Smart Thrifters Gather...

What makes a great thrift store? We have a few priorities: good prices, regular sales, decent management and racks that aren't so crammed that you get an upper-body workout just pushing and pulling hangers. Of course, frequent infusions of new merchandise is critical, too.

Which brings us to a website that we'll use next time we're traveling, and looking for the best thrift stores along the way. One of our readers told us about TheThriftShopper.com, which was created by a thrift-happy couple from Florida and which is chock-full of advice on stores and all kinds of collectibles, from Bakelite to comic books.

Melissa just posted a review for her favorite San Francisco store—Thrift Town, on Mission at 17th Street—and she'll use their store finder for an upcoming San Francisco-Los Angeles roadtrip.

Check it out!

Crazy For Gators (And We're Talking Handbags, Not Sports)

One of the stories from Alligators, Old Mink & New Money that readers often mention has to do with a woman who has a meltdown in Hooti over an off-white gator bag that she didn't buy when she first spotted it. Of course, as often happens with vintage shopping adventures, those of us who procrastinate frequently live to regret it.

Well, thankfully, there's more than one great vintage gator bag to be had, and if you haven't bought one yet, now is a great time, well ahead of the fall-shopping craziness. Lots of gators are moving on eBay at reasonable prices (but PLEASE look closely at the photos and if you aren't knowledgeable about what to look for, buy from a seller whose specialty is alligator handbags; many bags billed as alligator are actually some kind of lizard or other reptile). Of course, another option, so you can scrutinize the merchandise, and check the skins to make sure they haven't dried out, is your favorite vintage store. (And, by the way, we found the gator shown here at an Internet store called enokiworld; we have no relationship with them, and make no guarantees about their merchandise, we just liked this bag.)

Of course, some folks will never buy into vintage—and Alison, who was in Paris for a few days earlier this spring, spotted a new gator for those kinds of shoppers (and for whom money is no object):  On display at Hermes, in its own glass case, was a beautiful specimen—all you needed was $163,000 (give or take a few Euros). Alison was so stunned she didn't notice the diamond-encrusted clasp at first glance. (We wonder, does Oprah have one of these?)

If that's your preference, happy shopping. The rest of us will carry gators with a past (from Hermes, Lucille de Paris or no label at all) whose age only adds to their beauty, and with the confidence that our bags are just as likely to stand out on Fifth Avenue, Faubourg Saint-Honore or any other place we chose to take them.

A Rich & Warm Slice of 1945...

Two college-age girls named Marjorie and Marty decide to leave Iowa for summer jobs  in New York City,  and that's where this lovely new book begins. A true story packed with humor, romance, assorted vintage fashion moments, and World War II-era drama, it's now in book stores and at Amazon.

We're biased about Summer at Tiffany, written by Marjorie Hart of San Diego, because Melissa had a chance to work with Marjorie, and was instantly charmed by the author (a retired professional cello player and college dean), and her writing.  Marjorie and her book were discovered by William Morrow editor Jennifer Pooley, who was also our editor for Alligators, so that's how we first heard about this project. Then we read Marjorie's stories of how she and Marty spent their wild summer--and how they found jobs at Tiffany--and we were hooked.

We're pretty sure you'll be hooked, too--and the vintage photos from the 1940s are a wonderful bonus.

If you want to meet Marjorie in person, she'll be appearing at two California events in May. On Tuesday evening, May 8, she'll be at Warwick's in La Jolla, and on Saturday afternoon, May 12, she'll be at Rakestraw Books in Danville (a suburb of the San Francisco Bay Area). Click on the store names for more info.

Happy reading! And congratulations, Marjorie.

Oh, The Stories We Have Heard!

Okay, the time has come, finally, to share a few of the hundreds of emails we've received since Alligators first hit bookstores back in December 2005. Not a week has gone by that we haven't heard from readers all over the world, and while we had every intention of posting some of their comments, we always seemed to get distracted (and a bit overwhelmed)...until now. Stories about vintage, about relationships, about being a savvy shopper, and much more.... we have heard from smart women (and a few equally smart men) who just had to share a few details about a great thrift-store or flea market find or a first-time vintage adventure. We'll start with three of those notes, and in coming months, we promise to share more. Considering our still-strong Florida roots, we must admit that Dawn hooked us from sentence one. She lives on the "Space Coast" in the middle of the state, and she's so serious about thrifting that she included a photo of an outfit she put together for less than $10 (check out that clutch she found for $2.99!). We love it, and we also love what she wrote about her earliest vintage memories: "I went to Katie Gibbs (as it was known back in our day), the secretarial cum finishing school for young ladies who would become the trusted assistants of the men who staffed the "Mahogany Halls" of commerce and industry and then go on to marry them and live happily ever after." (Do we note just a bit of seasoned wit & wisdom here? We think so!) I was a poor struggling student and had no money for clothes. What to do? I raided my mother's closet and absconded with her...black straight cashmere skirt complete with kick pleat, a great camel-hair skirt from Bobbie Brooks, cashmere sweaters and silk shirts...My wardrobe was professional, elegant and classic...I was hooked!...I remember going to job interviews and my entire outfit came from thrifts...I will say that being broke and learning how to thrift shop well has helped me tremendously in the past 30 years." And, from the other coast, here's a note from Meg in San Diego. Okay, there is a bit of a Florida connection here, too...Meg lived there in her childhood, and particularly connected with the "barefoot" photo in our The Way We Were website album: "We absolutely lived in cutoffs and no shoes. I had a pair of cutoffs that were so ragged and patched they made my Mom crazy—she'd toss  them in the trash, I'd drag them back out and hide them in my room...I remember always being outdoors, riding our bikes to the beach, being thin as a rail from always being on the move..." Flash forward a few decades, and here's Meg with her oldest daughter, Chloe, who spends her spare time "plowing through the vintage and resale shops of downtown San Diego." Chloe's wearing a vintage beret and "I'm wearing one of my favorite hats—supposedly from the '40s. I had it cleaned and reblocked and I wear it through the fall and winter." Lastly, we must share just part of a note from Debbie in New Hampshire: "I finished your book about two weeks ago, and I must say that you provided me with the insight to infuse my (usually) classic wardrobe with a little bit of attitude. I just needed to spice it up a bit, and vintage it is....I have bought two vintage coats and a red kid purse that even has a pocket that my cell fits into!...I used to be an assistant buyer at Bloomies on 59th St. I have always been interested in fashion, and I grew up sewing...I just can't figure out why I never thought of vintage before!...When I was in New Jersey last week, I went to a consignment shop and found a vintage knee-length navy spring coat for my 25-year-old daughter for $2.50. It's adorable and she loves it. I hope I have opened her mind to the possibilities!" Debbie, we are sure you have! Thanks to everyone who has written us in the past year and a half, and we promise to share more of your stories in the coming months. Who could resist?

Alligators Is Everywhere!

In the shameless self-promotion department, we just have to brag for a paragraph (OK, two paragraphs) about our latest press coverage: Right this minute, you can find a mention of our book (as well as a photo of the paperback cover) on page 20 of the March 6 issue of Woman's Day magazine (it's on the newsstands now)...We are indebted to Dorothy Ruff of Colorado, who was one of the earliest Alligators fans to email us with her compliments. Thank you, Dorothy!!

Across the ocean, we got a huge, hot tout in the UK...in Heat magazine. For the issue of Feb. 3-9, Alligators was ranked as No. 10 on Heat's Top 10 booklist. Thank you Heat editors!

Now, onto the Oscars...we will be watching for great vintage gowns, of course.

"Cheap Chic," Then & Now

Melissa recently did an Alligators reading and vintage show 'n tell in Lafayette, which is a suburb across the bay from San Francisco. Every chair was taken, and the vintage goodies worn (and discussed) by attendees included luscious sweaters, tiny metal mesh bags, and a kangaroo-skin coat bought decades ago in Australia. And one guest, Cindy Marshall, not only offered a glimpse of the '60s, as remembered through a great black boucle dress suit that she wore to Europe, but she brought a paperback book that is as fun today as it was when it came out in 1975. Cheap Chic, by Caterine Milinaire and Carol Troy, was subtitled "Hundreds of money saving hints to create your own great look." The book was jammed with black & white photos and quirky illustrations, and topics varied from "wrapping" jersey around your body to the work of Zandra Rhodes and Diana Vreeland. One of our favorite mini-profiles, of writer Fran Liebowitz, was titled "Grouchy Simplicity." And her crankiness about "clothes with pictures and/or writing on them" makes us wonder how she's coped with the past thirty years of fashion. But one of her quotes sounds as fresh as anything in the current issue of Vogue, so we must repeat it: "My most precious possession is a terrific riding jacket that was made a century ago for the aunt of a friend. She was 80 when she died, wearing it, and it is still holding up impeccably....I wear it with $2 white cotton sailor pants." We assume that jacket finally died, but we'd love to know what replaced it in her fashion affections. As for the book itself, it has aged almost as well as a faux leopard coat or alligator bag. Cheap Chic originally sold for $5.95, but is now priced at $80 or more at assorted online book sellers. And the Cheap Chic "update", which came out in 1978, has also become a high-priced collectible. Thanks, Cindy, for reminding us of this classic.

Sixties Style, For a Price....

Before you begin your spring shopping at flea markets, vintage and thrift stores, and/or eBay, take a quick peak at the February issue of Vogue. You've already seen it? If so, you probably caught the mini-profile of designer Alice Ritter (page 266), posed in a delightful black dress with white trim and tasteful little bows....Yours for only $563, if you only buy new. Then, just a few pages before Ritter, you'll see an armload of square and rounded bangles, clear and gray, from $175 to $1,400.
Oh my. We are so glad we love old!

And Now, The First Vintage Wisdom for 2007....

Happy New Year to all our vintage-loving friends, and we'll kick off 2007 with a quote from designer Cynthia Rowley, found on page 53 of the January issue of Glamour magazine. When Ms. Rowley was asked what she loves right this minute, she said:

"Eighties-inspired fashion, a la Pretty in Pink. My rule: Mix contemporary pieces with vintage—you don't want to look like you walked out of a time machine."

So, on that note, happy dressing, and if you happen to be in England or elsewhere in the UK, look for the new paperback edition of Alligators, Old Mink & New Money. It hit bookstore shelves on Jan. 4.

Give The One-of-a-Kind Gift of Vintage

Do the malls leave you uninspired (or worse)? Are you bored to death with the cookie-cutter stuff in the endless catalogs filling your mailbox? Here are a few vintage-oriented ideas, plus one general shopping suggestion: For anyone on your gift list who appreciates fresh, unusual gifts, find the best vintage stores and estate jewelers in your town and do a bit of browsing. Or immediately check out the hundreds of Internet-based vintage stores that have quick shipping. And don't forget that many listings on eBay have a "Buy It Now" option, which is perfect for last-minute shoppers...as long as you spot a great item before someone else does. With so many ways to shop vintage, something is sure to grab your eye. Now, a few suggestions: 1. Give the gift that has already lasted a lifetime: a vintage watch, restored and ready to go another 20, 30 or 40 years. Look for rose gold, if you can afford it, or sterling, and buy from a jeweler or vintage store that specializes in watches. Lots of women, especially those with big bones, prefer the look of a man's watch. And watches with curved crystals are particularly handsome. 2. Think cashmere! A vintage cashmere sweater is hard to resist, especially one with beading or a fur collar (...IF the recipient is comfortable wearing fur). Pringle is one label to look for, but there are many great cashmere sweaters that lost their tags long ago and are still in great condition. Look carefully for holes, and holding the sweater up to the light is one way to do that. Cashmere coats and capes are another luxurious option. When in doubt about fit, make sure the store has an exchange or refund policy before buying. 3. If you are buying for someone who loves silk scarves, the only limit is your budget. Among the great labels to consider: Hermes, Givenchy, Jean Patou, Liberty of London, Vera and Pucci. That's just a short list, and many stunning pieces have no signature. For this gift category, eBay is a wonderful shopping destination. But be prepared for a bidding war—scarves are a hot commodity this time of year.  4. Purses, purses, purses: Need we say more. From classic gators to Whiting & Davis mesh evening bags (like the one shown here) to hobo shoulder pouches, the options are almost limitless.  5. Rhinestones on anything, bangles and cuffs and cuff links, earrings big and small...the list goes on and on for vintage jewelry. This is a category where you can spend $10 or $1,000, and give something that will be remembered (and worn). 6. Household goodies, from linens to pottery to lamps, are another great option, especially for those who spend more time polishing their home decor than their wardrobe. We particularly love vintage tablecloths and napkins, distinctive salt & pepper shakers, old teapots and quirky metal serving trays. 7. Gift certificates: Want to give vintage but have absolutely no idea what will be a hit? Buy a gift certificate. Most good vintage stores offer these. And, if you want to make the grand gesture really grand, tuck the certificate inside an inexpensive vintage evening clutch or wrap it with a vintage hankie...Now that's nice packaging!

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 4

How to Shop Smart Online
As much as Alison loves her store (and auctions and flea markets)—and Melissa loves all her vintage shopping options in San Francisco—we know that not everyone is so lucky. But stop all that moaning! Incredible vintage goodies are as close as your computer, and if you haven't yet taken the leap into the vintage world on the Internet, you are missing out.

It's not hard to shop online, but being a bit cautious, asking questions before you buy—AND READING THE FINE PRINT—will make you a savvy shopper who is less likely to be stuck with bad goods.

Here's what we have learned over the past several years, while buying everything from a classic two-tone alligator bag to a gorgeous Lilly Pultizer velvet coat (both items are in Melissa's closet):

1. eBay is a great place to start because of their feedback ratings. We always look at a seller's rating before even considering a bid. If someone has less than 50 sales and less than a 99% rating, we will look at lot closer at the actual feedback before taking the next step. Cliched as this sounds, where there's smoke, there's usually fire.

2. Read the whole description before bidding on something AND keep a tape measure close at hand. Don't just guess that something might fit you, and definitely don't go by an actual size tag. Study the measurements, then measure something comparable in your closet, if possible. If that sweater you already own measures 18 inches from armhole to armhole, then you probably can't fit into one that is only 16 inches wide. If the seller doesn't provide measurements, ask for them.

3. If you want something that is likely to be pricey—an alligator or crocodile purse, a vintage watch or serious jewelry, be especially careful about buying from a reputable vendor with top-notch feedback. Also keep in mind that reptile skins can be tricky to identify. But, in general, if the "scale" of a skin is small, it is probably lizard or snake rather than alligator or croc. Often we spot items on eBay that are lizard, but have been described as gator. Look closely at a variety of purses, at brick-and-mortar stores and in photos, and you will become more knowledgeable about skins.

4. If an Internet seller has given only minimal information, or seems vague about the details, ask questions or keep moving. And if you want to see more photos of an item, ask; it's possible the seller has more images they can e-mail you.

5. Most sellers on eBay will NOT accept returns based on poor fit. You buy it, you own it. So, read the details, noting everything from shipping costs to methods of payment to such red flags as "slightly smoky odor".  Also, the most sophisticated Internet vintage vendors have implemented ratings for their merchandise and we love that; some if something is described as "good" rather than "mint" you know what to expect.

6. We love PayPal, for its ease of use, and highly recommend it. Some vendors will take checks or money orders, but that will usually delay the arrival of merchandise.

7. If you have never bid on an item at eBay before, spend some time at the site learning the eBay lingo. That way you will know what a "reserve" is (we usually avoid these because it's more game-playing than shopping), as well as "buy it now" and "best offer." Also, you will encounter sellers who don't sell to first-timers. When in doubt, send an email to the seller before putting in a bid. Usually, honest and clear communication is the best way to avoid misunderstandings.

8. If you win an auction, pay promptly. It is the decent thing to do, and you are much more likely to earn positive feedback, quickly.

9. Finally, there are hundreds, if not thousands, of vintage sellers on the Internet who don't use eBay (and many eBay sellers who also have online "stores"). Amazing merchandise is just a click away, but it helps to know what you are looking for. If you want a vintage Pucci clutch or sexy Daniel Green mules, type those words into Google, and go from there.  As you would at any store, ask about return policies and read any fine print before putting in an order. 

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 3

Golden Gloves

When the fall merchandise first went on the racks at Hooti, I had about 20 pairs of gloves—white, black and brown, from cotton to ostrich—in a basket. Four days later, only three pair remained. I've been restocking as quickly as I can, but lots of times the cotton and nylon gloves I see at auctions need laundering—and it's amazing the results you can get with just a little bit of effort.

Fill your sink or a bucket with cold water, add a little Woolite or other laundry detergent, swish your cotton or nylon gloves around for a few minutes (never mix colors!), let them soak for a couple of hours if they are seriously soiled, then rinse thoroughly, wrap in a towel to dry (no wringing!), then lay flat on a fresh, dry towel, preferably on a rack, to allow ventilation and quicker drying.

If they are white and yellowed, add a little Biz or OxiClean to the wash water and detergent, then soak for at least a couple of hours. If there are oily stains, rub some baby powder into the spots while the gloves are dry, then let them sit for a few minutes before washing. For white gloves, you can give them an extra whitening shot by drying them in the sun. If your soiled gloves are leather or suede, dry cleaning is your best option.

All That Glitters...in Seattle

If you are anywhere near Seattle this weekend (Nov. 4th & 5th), get yourself to the 23rd annual Goodwill Glitter Sale, at 1400 South Lane Street (206-329-1000). We usually try to avoid mob scenes, but we wish we could be in line at 9 am Saturday, when they open the doors.

This event is so crazy that you have to take a number and wait your turn for a shot at the jewelry counter, and the other offerings, selected from donations over the past year, include ball gowns  & tuxedos, shoes, cocktail dresses, purses and wraps....anything you could possibly need for the holiday season. And not only do you have the chance to grab a wonderful piece at a reasonable price, but proceeds support Goodwill's job training and education programs.

Hours are: Saturday, 9-6; Sunday, 11-4, and the store is about a five-minute drive from the  heart of downtown. One more little detail worth noting: Customers must wear slips, bodysuits or swimsuits when trying on clothes. This is not the day to throw modesty out the window.

p.s. If you live in the Seattle area, but are traveling this weekend, you will have another shot at goodies the very next weekend (Nov. 11 & 12). Goodwill will have a vintage booth at the Antiques & Collectibles Show, Puyallup Fairgrounds.

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 2

Cuff It!
Necks and coats aren’t the only thing getting the fur treatment this fall: In fact, your options for pumping up your wardrobe with a swath of mink, fox or a fabulous faux are almost limitless.

We never miss a chance to grab fur cuffs for Hooti because they can give a fresh twist to everything from a simple seventies velvet or tweed jacket to almost any vintage denim or thick-knit outerwear.

If you can’t find the right cuffs in your favorite vintage store, check out your local thrift stores for a fur-trimmed coat where the price is right because the coat’s design or color is unappealing, or the wool is full of moth holes or damaged by stains. If the fur looks healthy (no "bald" spots, no cracks or splits, no shedding), grab that coat. Then remove the cuffs, donate the coat to your local charity, if it’s still wearable, and give those cuffs a second life.

You can either hand-stitch them to the jacket or coat yourself or have your tailor do the work. And once that first serious cold weather blows through your city or town, your wrists will thank you.

Fall Tips & Tricks: No. 1

Create a Bit of Neck Candy

When a mother and daughter came into Hooti Couture recently, they were carrying an expensive new steel-gray double-breasted, three-quarter wool coat from Marni that the daughter would be taking to Paris when she starts a new job later this fall. They had loved Marni’s fur collar accessories, but not the steep prices, so they took a do-it-yourself approach to give this coat added pizzazz.

Fur collars and cuffs often outlast the wool coats they originally trimmed in the 1940s and 1950s, and many vintage stores offer a selection of fur “remnants,” especially in the fall and winter. Hooti always starts the fall season with a basket full of old mink and fox pieces, in all shapes and sizes, but they never last long.

For the Marni coat, the mother-daughter team finally settled on two medium-size mink collars, in brown and black, that can sit either under the wool collar or on top of it. These collars can be held in place with a vintage brooch, or, for a more "permanent" installation,  a couple of hooks and eyes stitched to the collar and coat will do the trick.

So, whether you are headed for Paris, or staying put this fall and winter, it's incredibly easy to give your favorite coat new energy—and up-to-the minute style. 

This fall, we'll add new vintage style and shopping tips and tricks every week. And we'll answer questions, too. Just drop us a note at hooticouture@aol.com.

Great Gowns, Great Cause

Are you in the market for a great vintage wedding dress at a good price? Would you like to buy one and support the Making Memories Breast Cancer Foundation? Or do you simply have a gown that deserves to be worn more than once?

If you answer yes to any of these questions, click right on over to the website makingmemories.org, where you will find much more information about Brides Against Breast Cancer, which organizes wedding gown sales around the country.

Brenda Chovanak, who's director of the antique gown division of  Making Memories, will be bringing more than 500 gowns, sizes 0-12, representing every decade from the 1930s to the 1980s, to the  San Francisco Vintage Expo (Sept. 16 & 17; see more info at vintageexpo.com). The gowns include an "amazing group" of dresses from the '60s and '70s, and prices range from $99 to $599. (Melissa will be at this show, too; check out our upcoming Alligators events list.)

If you can't make it to San Francisco, the Making Memories website has a full schedule of upcoming shows. And f you live in Seattle or Tacoma, WA., or Greensboro, NC,  September is your month to shop.

Here's The Menu: Dumplings or Rice

Wherever vacations take us, we're always on the lookout for great vintage stores, and once we find those stores, anything's possible. That's how we came to learn about designer Cynthia Caldwell's "rice" and "dumpling" bags and lots of other whimsical creations.

Caldwell's pure-fun purses frequently incorporate vintage or recycled fabrics and/or vintage patterns, and we found a few pieces of her Crow 7 Bags line at Encore vintage in downtown Portland, Maine. Owner Rita Prout-Farley has incredible stock (521 Congress St.; 207-775-4275) and excellent prices, and this has to be one of the best vintage stores in New England. It's a must stop if you are anywhere near Portland.

Rita's stock includes Caldwell's larger bags, done in assorted vintage faux leopard prints, and that's how we learned that the artist was sewing the summer away on Peaks Island, before she heads back to home base in Arizona this fall. You can also see her latest work at Archipelago (386 Main St., Rockland, Maine), and at Art by the Bay,  South Maine Community College, on Sept. 16.

Now, about the rice and dumplings: Caldwell's "Rice-Cycled" purses use Bombay rice bags, and the one above also incorporates vintage velvet in a python print. Her "dumplings" are small, soft, round purses with loop handles, and they are based on a 1940s design. For fall Caldwell is doing dumplings in all kinds of vintage furs with velvet trims.

If you are nowhere near Maine this summer or fall, you can see a few of her pieces at www.etsy.com. Under "advanced search" plug in the name Crow 7 to see her page. You can also reach Caldwell at crow7bags@hotmail.com for more information about those furry dumplings, rice bags and many other designs.

Tunics, Tantalizing Reds & Zadie Smith's Dresses

We stopped counting the number of times we spotted the word "vintage" in the August issue of Vogue magazine, but we don't want you to miss the high points.... For starters, check out View editor Sally Singer's report on "a new shape" (page 142). Singer loves YSL's charcoal gray tunic and pants for fall, and celebrates the tunic's fashion past, from Balenciaga to Diana Vreeland.</p>

Also not to be missed is Christy Turlington (page 208) wearing every shade of red in velvet, satin, even Mabelline's New York Express Finish nail polish in Racing Rubies (great color, great name). And, yes, there's a sequined tunic, too.

Vogue saved the best for last, with a short but rich profile of British writer Zadie Smith, in words and photos (page 246). She posed in her dressing room, looking feminine and sassy in what looks to be Forties-era vintage, her pug and a pink phone nearby.

Of course, Alison will be hunting for tunics, not to mention all things red, for Hooti's fall collection; stay tuned for opening-day details....and we'll be keeping a close eye on eBay, too.

Hooti & A Vintage Party: Tune Into "Dinner Takes All"

Do you love the idea of a vintage-themed dinner party in pink and white, complete with brooch-accented vintage napkins and a hostess in a '60s yellow floral chiffon dress and a fab heel?

Then turn on the TV for TLC's show "Dinner Takes All," Wednesday, June 26 at 5:30 (ET). That's when Hooti customer and Essence magazine accessories editor Daisy Lewellyn vies for the big bucks in this show that celebrates entertaining. Daisy's "summer in the city" party includes "daisy"-shaped plates from Hooti, and Alison will also make an appearance, since the show's filming included a shopping trip to Hooti. If Daisy's name sounds familiar that's because she also starred in our book; check out page 147 for a snapshot of how Daisy and her good friend Love dressed vintage for a Baby Phat party.

Good luck, Daisy, and we're dying see what goodies you put on those plates!

If You Love Fakes...

We have a fresh must-read for everyone who can't live without their rhinestones, brooches and bangles: Fabulous Fakes, A Passion for Vintage: 100 Years of Costume Jewelry (Artisan, 2006). The author is Carol Tanenbaum, and you can find her gem at Amazon for the discounted price of $22.05.

We heard about this book thanks to Hester Hull, a new friend we made last weekend while appearing at The Community House Antiques Show in Birmingham, a suburb of Detroit. Hester's a librarian, so she gets the early word on great new books—and bought this one for her library. Just remember: When in doubt, you can look it up! And thank you Hester, as well as all the other folks at The Community House who made us feel so welcome.

Seventeen, Proms & Goodwill

Check out the newest issue of Seventeen magazine (yes, April 2006 is already out) for a WOW collection of vintage dresses, including several from Goodwill. The piece is titled Unique and Affordable Prom Dresses, and editors went hunting for vintage gowns that would "match" new, high-priced gowns worn by celebrities and shown in adjacent photos. It's fun!

And, speaking of Goodwill, if your spring or summer travels take you anywhere near Seattle, and you have time to dig through a store full of goodies, put Goodwill on your calendar. When Melissa was in Seattle last month to do an Alligators reading at the Bellevue Library, several locals told her she had to go to the main Goodwill store. They even gave her directions.

So, just as soon as she signed her last book, she hopped into the rental car and drove straight to the Dearborn Street exit on Interstate 5, just south of downtown Seattle. It's in an industrial neighborhood, and the huge store is just a few blocks east of the highway. What a place! Melissa killed two hours and left with an armload of goodies, even though she never made it to most of the racks.

If you do make it, say hi to employees Mary Lewis and Courtney; they both love and know their vintage. In fact, one of their dresses, a gorgeous pink strapless, made it into the Seventeen story.

Hello UK & Australia!

                                                                              

Yes, hallelujah, Alligators, Old Mink & New Money has hit the shelves from London to Glasgow to Sydney, thanks to Orion Publishing Group. For us, that's as cool as nailing gold on the half-pipe at Turin, even if we're a little bit shaky on some of  the British vintage lingo as well as snowboarding's flips and twists! Anyway, look for Alligators in bookstores or order online at amazon.co.uk. 

In celebration of Alligators' arrival, we'll be including cool vintage items with UK and Australian pedigrees in our "What We Like on eBay." Even if we can't be on Carnaby Street at the moment, we can certainly think Carnaby Street!

Finally, we'd love to hear from anyone who can recommend great vintage stores anywhere in the UK or Down Under. We'll post the results in the weeks ahead.

Until then, happy reading.